Residential · Pipes, leaks & valves
Poly-B Replacement in Markham
If your basement ceiling shows grey plastic pipe with copper or plastic crimp rings, you have Poly-B. Many Markham homes do, and plenty of owners are now replacing it.
- Static and flow pressure read at a hose bib
- Leaks traced with meters and thermal camera
- Copper, PEX and poly-b repairs and replacement
- Main shut-off exercised and labelled
- Licensed plumbers (details on request)
- Price agreed before work
- Call-only, no forms
- Tested before we leave



Signs you need Poly-B replacement
Polybutylene supply pipe went into plenty of Ontario houses from the late 1970s into the mid-1990s. It was cheap and easy to install, but the material and some of its fittings can degrade over time, especially near the water heater where it runs hot. Failures tend to arrive without warning, often at a fitting.
- Grey, flexible pipe stamped PB2110 or similar.
- Insurance renewal letters asking about pipe type.
- A home inspection report that flags polybutylene.
- White flaking or discolouration around fittings.
Our routine on the day
The first visit is about finding all of it. Poly-B often runs from the main in the basement to each bathroom and the kitchen, but we also check hidden spots like the line to the fridge, the laundry box and outdoor taps. With the full picture, we explain whether partial or complete replacement makes sense, and why.
New lines are usually PEX, routed through the basement ceiling and up through walls with small openings in closets or behind fixtures. Each branch gets its own shut-off. When the new system is tested and live, the old Poly-B is disconnected and removed wherever it can be reached without unnecessary damage.
Markham houses and what shapes this job
Neighbourhoods built through the 1980s and early 90s, such as Milliken Mills, Middlefield, parts of Thornhill and Markville, are where we find Poly-B most. Finished basements add time, since the main runs are behind drywall, so we plan openings along the line of joists to keep patching simple. Houses built after the mid-90s in Berczy Village or Box Grove seldom have it, though renovations of that era occasionally used leftover stock.
Talking to your insurer
Some insurance companies ask for proof that Poly-B has been fully removed, while others accept a partial job with a plan to finish. Call your broker before the work so you know exactly what they need. We can provide a written description of the work, the materials used and the date of completion, and photos on request. That record also helps when you sell the house, since buyers and their inspectors ask the same questions.
Ring us without delay if
A leak at a Poly-B fitting can go from drip to spray quickly. Shut the main straight away; if you aren't sure where it is, read finding your main shut-off. For the history and the insurance angle, the Poly-B in Markham homes brief has more, and for a broader overhaul see repiping.
Not sure what you have? Snap a photo of the pipe in your basement ceiling and describe it when you call. That is often enough for us to tell you whether a visit makes sense.
New lines are usually PEX, routed through the basement ceiling and up through walls with small openings in closets or behind fixtures.
From the job notes of Plumbers in Markham
Job card · Pipes, leaks & valves
On the van for this job
- Pipe cutters, propane torch and press tools for copper
- Gauges for static and flow pressure tests
Signs you need this
- The meter dial turns with every tap off
- Flow that falls off when a second tap opens
What we check before we pack up
- Read static pressure at a hose bib
- Pressure-test new pipe before closing walls
| Pipe | Era | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Galvanized steel | Pre-1960s | Rust narrows the bore |
| Poly-b (grey) | About 1978 to 1995 | Fitting failures, brittle pipe |
Markham note. Markham water service lines enter on the street-facing basement wall, and the main shut-off and meter usually sit right there. In older houses that valve is often a rusty multi-turn gate valve left untouched since the house was built.
How the job runs, start to finish
- 1
On the phone
Explain what the water is doing and where. We ask the age of the house and which valve or breaker to shut while we drive over.
- 2
Drop cloths down
Floors and cabinets get covered, the water or gas is isolated and the work area is lit.
- 3
Find the failed part
We open the trap, cleanout, access panel or wall where the fault is, and show you what we found.
- 4
Quote, then work
We explain what failed and what the fix costs; no cutting starts until you say yes.
- 5
Cut, fit, seal
Old parts come out, new pipe, valves or fixtures go in, and joints are soldered, pressed, crimped or glued.
- 6
Test and ticket
We run water, pressure-test or fire the heater, check for drips, clean up and leave a written ticket of what was done.